5:00 AM rolled around and sure enough, my friend, Nicolas Putnam was already on his way to pick me up for surfing. Despite going to bed the previous night fairly late, I surprisingly found it not difficult to wake up. I am sure the “first time” surfing nerves helped. We went back to Nic’s house to collect the surfboards and wetsuits, make breakfast (bacon, fried rice… my own creation), and head to the beach. Upon arrival, it shocked me to see the beach already filled with surfers. I had thought we were way too early, but in reality, we were…